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Chemical Peels & Dark Skin

by Marie Claire |

With many years of experience in the treatment room and dealing with tons of clients with post acne scars, I have learned that when it comes to dark skin, not all peels are created equal. With my dark skin clients, I like to “babysit” their skin.  A series of light peels to help heal the skin and fade scars over time. If you rush the process, their skin will revolt and you will have to deal with the “melanin war”. With so many different types of chemical agents available, it’s important to know something about how they work and what they can be used for.

My favorite acids/ peels for dark skin are: lactic and mandelic acids. In fact, we have added lactic acid in all of our chemical peels.

Lactic Acid (AHA)– This is a gentle peel derived from soured milk and good for sensitive skin types. Lactic acid is also found naturally in the skin and is a natural humectant, so not only will it remove afore mentioned dullness but it will also help the skin draw and retain moisture, leaving it smooth and plumped out. I love using our Smoothing Gel Pro, it features Vitamin C and Lactic Acid, together they are a powerhouse, effective yet non-invasive. Vitamin C combined with lactic acid help brightens and rejuvenate the skin, and also help reduce the appearance of pores.   Excellent for acne, skin brightening and rejuvenating protocols

Mandelic Acid – This has gentle surface action and is both antibacterial and anti inflammatory. It is derived from bitter almonds.  I love this peel and even use it as a prep pre- extractions. I apply a thin layer of Brightening Peel Pro on clean skin with the steamer on and work it into the skin for about 2 minutes, then rinse off with warm water and facial sponge. Makes extraction a breeze. Excellent for oily and congested skin, inflamed acne, superficial hyperpigmentation.